Justin Dunham

's journal about making things

Grape Bread 2

Filed under: Cooking Journal — Tags: , , , , , — Justin Dunham on August 13, 2012

Been meaning to write this up for a long time now, but a few months ago I decided to make this grape bread again. This time, I used a different recipe, one that caused it come up much more like a flatbread, rather than something puffy. I also used actual concord grapes (seeded of course).

Really excellent served with a sharp goat cheese and some additional grapes on the side. Because this recipe is much crispier – or at least came out that way for me – and because it has a much more savory flavor, brought about the heavy rosemary usage, it was a great appetizer course.

With an herb-wrapped goat cheese and more grapes.

Crisping in the oven.

Beet and Carrot Salad, Green Tea Cheesecake, and Roasted Chicken

Filed under: Cooking Journal — Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , — Justin Dunham on January 8, 2011

Cheesecake with green tea leaves and raspberry / mint garnish

Beet and carrot salad, with plenty of parsley

Before... you can see the chicken in the center, coated with a honey-mustard mixture and surrounded by tomato, red onion, and rosemary and thyme

...and after.

Between exams, other projects, and travel I hadn’t really been in a kitchen for a little while. So I decided to cook something, even though I’m away from home at the moment (in Portland).

Other people’s kitchens make me a little nervous – I can’t count on things that I need being available when I need them. So I decided to make some dishes that I could make without too many special implements. This meant a beet and carrot salad, roast chicken with tomatoes and onions, and a cheesecake.

I decided to go with this green tea cheesecake since I was also looking for an excuse to go to a nearby location of the amazing Asian supermarket Uwajimaya. I freaking love Uwajimaya. If I lived in Portland, it’s where I would shop even though it’s about an hour of extra travel. They have incredible fresh seafood of all types, as well as lots of really interesting fruit – fresh rambutan, lotus root, and buddha’s hand, anyone? I was pretty close to making a last-minute decision to incorporate some of these ingredients in what I cooked, but given that Epicurious had only one recipe including dragonfruit, I decided to wait.

Anyway, so, cheesecake, chicken, and beet and carrot salad. The beet and carrot salad recipe was fairly intimidating, even though I really like roasting beets from scratch. I decided to dispense with most of the complexity of the recipe, particularly the idea of buying golden and red beets and making a separate dressing for each.

Instead, I bought only red beets and made one dressing for the whole thing, combining the ingredients of the dressings from the recipe. I used cumin, shallots, lemon juice, balsamic vinegar, and olive oil. I also decided to use a ton of parsley, since it was getting overshadowed by everything else, but lends a really nice fresh flavor to the salad. The recipe calls for leaving the tops of the carrots on while you roast them. This also looks pretty nice, but I’m not sure it was worth the trouble.

The chicken was fun – I’ve never roasted a whole one before. I started with this Easy Provencal Lamb recipe from the Barefoot Contessa, who’s usually pretty reliable. But when I got to the store, I found that bone-in lamb now costs $10 per pound. So for 7 pounds… yeah. A chicken that could feed everyone cost me 10% of that price. I removed the giblets – had never done that before, and they weren’t even bagged. This was less disturbing than I thought it would be. I then smothered the chicken in the honey-mustard sauce and put it in the roasting pan. The chicken gets surrounded by diced tomatoes and onions in oil and honey.

Interestingly, it turns out I put the chicken in the roasting pan upside-down. Apparently, people do this on purpose, because it helps keep the meat moist, especially in this case since the chicken was basically poaching in all the collected liquid from the tomatoes, onions, and sauce. So the chicken came out really well.

Uh, the second time, that is. As soon as we cut into it the first time, it turned out was still raw! How embarrassing. I had used the “juices run clear” test, which it turns out is not accurate. Instead, insert a meat thermometer in the thigh, and wait until the internal temperature reads 165 degrees. I promise your chicken will not dry out (well, it won’t dry out because you cooked it fully – I can’t guarantee it won’t dry out for other reasons). Once I cooked it through again, it was fine. Overall, I recommend 425 or 450 degrees for an hour or 90 minutes.

The cheesecake may have been the best part of the meal, and it was certainly the easiest. Cheesecakes are made from a simple batter which includes cream cheese, sugar, and eggs. In this case, we also added crushed-up green tea leaves, and some greek yogurt. These were both substitutes for the far more expensive ingredients that the recipe calls for: powdered green tea and fromage blanc. The green tea complements the savoriness of the cheesecake really nicely, as does the shortbread crust. All three of shortbread, green tea, and cheesecake straddle this savory / sweet line pretty well.

The cheesecake is garnished with raspberries and mint, and you serve it with a tea, also made from raspberries and mint. I was pretty skeptical about this, but it actually tasted pretty good along with the cake.

Rosemary-lemon chicken, cheese plate with homemade crackers and jams, and tres leches cake

Lemon chicken in the top of the oven, and sprouts roasting below.

From right to left: parrano, stilton with lemon peel, gorgonzola, and a goat cheese with pepper. Accompaniments of homemade crackers, beet jam, and cucumber jelly.

I didn't know this is how brussels sprouts grow!

The roasted sprouts.

I recently had a couple of friends over for a Sunday night dinner. Being somewhat short on time, I had to make dishes that led to good results in a time-efficient way.

So I chose (a) a cheese plate with some cucumber jelly and beet jam, (b) rosemary-lemon chicken, and (c) tres leches cake, which I served with a raspberry sauce and maple-glazed almonds.

Everything came out really well. For the cheese plate, I tried to focus on picking a variety of cheeses that would go well with the accompaniments. In this case, I was serving another dinner the next day, so I’ll write about the cheese plate in more detail when I write about that dinner. The beet jam and cucumber jelly I’ve made before, as well as the crackers, though for different purposes.

The chicken was pretty easy to make, and searing and then putting in the oven ensures that it gets nice and crispy on the outside without too much risk of overdone-ness. I’m not sure that baking it with the lemons and rosemary on top actually does anything for the flavor, though it was speculated that the rosemary and lemon might release some of their essential oils into the sauce. Not convinced.

I realize now that I’ve never written an entry about tres leches cake before, though it’s a recipe I make relatively often since it’s straightforward, and a crowdpleaser. Next time I make it, I promise a proper entry on the topic. In the meantime, if you haven’t had it, it’s basically a very light sponge cake that is soaked overnight in a mixture of evaporated and condensed milk, served with whipped cream (hence “three milks”). The result is a very satisfying, sweet, and obviously incredibly moist cake. The accompaniments, especially the fruit sauce, work really well with its sweetness.

I served the chicken together with some brussels sprouts, by the way. I had never seen this before, but at Trader Joe’s they were selling them on the stalk! I actually preferred this since the sprouts stay fresher longer, and they’re a lot cheaper this way.  I roasted the sprouts until they were crispy and then served them with a bunch of salt, sort of like healthy french fries.

Beetiness

Filed under: Cooking Journal — Tags: , , , , , — Justin Dunham on March 4, 2010

The completed dish.

This picture is to set the mood of this blog post.

Though I wasn’t planning to cook for the week until this past Monday, on Sunday night I was watching Iron Chef. And I saw one of the chefs roast lemons. And I thought – wow, that sounds interesting. So I quickly looked up “roasted lemons” on Google, and this recipe was the first result. And then I thought – I actually have capers and lemons already. So I’ll go get the other ingredients and give this a shot. And on the side, I’ll make a beet risotto, since I have some cans of beets that are probably never going to get used otherwise.

The chicken turned out surprisingly well, actually, it reminded me of a standard Italian lemon sauce, which I guess it sort of was. I’m not sure what roasting the lemons did for it, but perhaps it mellowed their flavor. I accidentally used 50% more lemon than I was supposed to, so it actually turned out to be a little too much, but overall not bad.

The beet risotto turned out OK, not great. I mean, it’s still beets, rice, and rosemary, which is a pretty good combination. But the beets had been soaking in water for quite a long time, and I’m sure it leeched out a lot of their flavor. As a result, they weren’t as beety as they normally would be. Perhaps sometime in the future I’ll try an experiment whereby I take the 5 cups of chicken stock I would normally use (for 2 cups of rice), and add the liquid from the beet cans, then reduce until we are back at 5 cups. I wonder if that would have helped in this case.

I also took time to roast the beets from the cans, by the way, which didn’t do anything. Good to know.

Creative Commons License
.