Justin Dunham

's journal about making things

Dinner for seven

Filed under: Cooking Journal — Tags: , , , , , , , , , , — Justin Dunham on September 18, 2010

Roasted tomatoes stuffed with scallions and corn.

Risotto on the simmer.

In late August I had the wonderful opportunity to make dinner for seven! I invited several of my classmates over so we could all get to know each other and finish up a class project.

I made things I’ve made before: carrot soup, stuffed tomatoes, braised celery, braised short ribs and beet risotto. Old favorites, you might even call them. I picked these because they’re relatively easy to make – and because I’ve made them so many times before I’d be unlikely to screw them up!

Culinarily, one thing that was interesting is that we had a vegetarian joining us. Cooking for vegetarians is a brand-new experience for me. To make it work, I substituted vegetable stock for the chicken stock I usually use in making risotto, and for the beef stock I usually use when braising celery.

Vegetable stock definitely does not work quite as well for risotto. You lose a certain savoriness. I may try mushroom stock next time, or half mushroom, half vegetable, to get that back. Vegetable stock also attenuates the color a bit – the risotto at the bottom of the pan started to turn orange!

However, I would argue that braised celery tastes even better with vegetable stock. If you ignore the directions to cover the pan (which I did), the stock boils off a bit, leaving you with a nice, syrupy, vaguely-tomato sauce.

Logistically, this was the only the second time I’ve cooked for more than 3 people, and I also had barely any time on the day of to completely the dishes. To resolve this, I tried to pick stuff that is either very quick to make (braised celery and to a certain extent beet risotto) or that can be made overnight (short ribs and carrot soup). Braised dishes actually tend to taste better the day after they are cooked, which was the case this time also. Something about the dispersion of the various sapid molecules, maybe?

I would guess that I spent an entire workday or so actually making the dishes, which is fairly typical when I make a complex dish – the additional servings add more time, but not twice as much to make twice as many servings, for example. Eventually, I will need to learn to reduce cooking times. I wonder how many times I have to make a dish before this happens?

Finally, I also struggled with how many servings to make. I didn’t want anyone to go hungry. On the other hand, we have been sort of overwhelmed by the amount of leftovers we’ve had lately, and I wanted to avoid that too. I actually ended up simply doubling what I normally make for me and my fiancee (which usually results in several days of leftovers). This seemed to work pretty well.

One final note: To make risotto, you essentially just spoon hot broth into hot risotto rice, wait until the broth is absorbed, and repeat. I have been skipping heating the broth before pouring it in, because it saves a little time and you end up with one fewer pot to clean. But I think this may be a big mistake. The risotto took almost an hour to make (instead of 30 minutes), and I am guessing this may be because the cool broth “shocks” the hot rice, leading to a protracted period of re-warming before anything else can be absorbed.

Radish risotto, chicken paillard, cardamom carrots

Filed under: Cooking Journal — Tags: , , , , , , , , — Justin Dunham on September 11, 2010

The dish. You can see the radish risotto (the julienned radishes are just visible) in the back. For some reason, I put the chicken beneath the avocado slices, so you can't see it as well. Next time, I will serve about half as much avocado, or maybe turn it into some kind of salsa.

For a single-course dinner a couple weeks ago, I made the following: chicken paillards, carrots roasted with cardamom, and radish risotto. I served all of this with an avocado and some leftover corn salsa.

I had to improvise a little bit. The grocery-store situation in Philadelphia is a little touch-and-go, so I couldn’t get the parsnips – and indeed potatoes – called for in the recipe I linked above! So I decided to just go with the carrots. Similarly, I had some chicken thighs,  but I didn’t feel like roasting them. So I cut them off the bone, flattened them, and seared them quickly (about 3 minutes, maybe a little more, on each side).

As far as the individual components, everything came out really well. The paillards in particular stayed juicy and had a particularly intense chicken flavor. I love radishes, and the risotto recipe allows them to retain a little kick, and a lot of crunchiness. The colors are also beautiful. My only complaint is that the recipe calls for too much cheese, I think.

Evaluating the dinner as a whole, there were many things I liked about it. The flavors were uniformly delicious. They married pretty well together, even though the components aren’t drawn from the same cuisines. I care a lot about color when I cook, and the food was almost a full rainbow – red (radishes), orange (carrots), yellow and green (avocadoes), brown and off-white (chicken and rice).

However, I ran into some presentation issues. As you can see in the picture above, I put the avocadoes on top of the chicken. This actually looked nicer than putting the avocado under the chicken, which I also tried. It certainly isn’t unappetizing, it’s just a little confusing. I think next time I will either serve a bit less avocado, or maybe make it into some kind of salsa as a substitute for the corn salsa. The problem is that (a) the chicken really needs some kind of sauce, but (b) the avocado goes so well with all the other savory components that it seems a shame to leave it out.

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