Justin Dunham

's journal about making things

Banana cardamom ice cream with peanut brittle and raspberries

Filed under: Cooking Journal — Tags: , , , , , , — Justin Dunham on June 6, 2011

Ice cream!

I’ve written about this ice cream briefly before, and here’s the recipe. You start by crushing and toasting some cardamom pods, then steeping the cardamom – and banana slices – in milk for a while. After that’s chilled, you add raw (yes, raw!) egg yolks and honey, and put in your ice cream machine. I’m actually not a big cardamom fan, but the result is an ice cream that’s refreshing and sweet but also strangely earthly. The pale yellow color is beautiful also.

This time, I was looking for a way to dress up the presentation a bit, and I thought, how about ice cream sandwiches? And then I thought, really, peanut butter and banana is a classic combination, and one of Elvis’ favorites to boot.

And, I have been looking for an excuse to make some of the sugar-based confections that I wrote about in this recent entry about the molecular mechanics of sugar. So how about peanut brittle? (I used this recipe, which gives a buttery, salty and sweet peanut brittle that’s difficult to stop eating and that we contemplated using as a breakfast cereal). After I poured the peanut brittle, I used a cookie cutter to cut rounds in it as it melted so that I’d be able to build the sandwich.

As you can tell from the picture above, the “sandwich” concept was a failure – the ice cream melted too fast, and I didn’t have the patience to figure it out. Too much salt, perhaps? But everything tasted great in a giant bowl with some raspberries that added a jammy tartness to the dish.

Braised Short Ribs, Beet Chocolate Cake, and Salad with Flowers

Filed under: Cooking Journal — Tags: , , , , , , , , , , — Justin Dunham on June 24, 2010

"Preview salad" of pickled carrots, tomatoes, mozzarella and edible flowers

Salad with tomatoes, blackberries, flowers, and feta cheese

Main course: braised short rib, polenta, braised celery and celery leaf garnish

Chocolate beet cake, vanilla ice cream, and raspberry syrup

About three weeks ago (way behind on posts here), I decided to try my hand at braised short ribs again – they are basically foolproof, and I was cooking for my fiancee and a friend of hers so did not want to screw up too badly :)

The last time I made these ribs, I complained that while they were delicious, I thought the lid had come off the dutch oven, since the vast majority of the sauce seemed to have boiled off.

So this time, I was very careful to make sure the lid was on tight, and to check the ribs as they cooked.

A lot of the sauce did appear to have boiled off again – where it could have gone, I do not know – or to have disappeared or thickened so as to be unrecognizable. However, there was enough left to dress the ribs after they came out, which I wasn’t able to do last time. At the picture of the left, you can see the carrot cubes, for example.

I served the ribs over the same polenta I made last time, and alongside some celery braised in beef stock,
since I happened to have some leftover celery, and since I thought that would go well. I garnished the celery stalks with the trimmed celery leaves. I really like using the culinarily-unconsidered parts of vegetables, such as beet greens, celery flowers, chard stems. I often buy carrots with the tops still attached (cheaper that way), and I would love to try cooking carrot greens sometime. These odds and ends often have, or can be endowed with, good flavor, and they are free!

For a starter salad, I served this summery blackberry salad, with some edible flowers on top. These flowers are available at Whole Foods and probably other grocery stores, and they taste like, um, flowers.

But they’re good. And mostly, they’re a useful cheap trick to make a salad look amazingly colorful and appetizing, which is especially nice in summer. Because my fiancee wanted a snack before dinner, I also made a “preview salad” using some of the same ingredients, along with some tomatoes and mozzarella, and carrots I had been “pickling” (in quotes because I would consider what I did more of a long marinade).

For dessert, I served these chocolate beet cupcakes with some store-bought vanilla ice cream (Haagen-Dazs “Five” was on sale), and a quick raspberry syrup. “Five” is interesting – it’s named that way because it only contains five ingredients: cream, sugar, eggs, milk and in this case vanilla. But why is it so expensive? Is it because other ice creams use fillers or something like that, or add ingredients that extend shelf life?

Miniature cheesecakes

Filed under: Cooking Journal — Tags: , , , , — Justin Dunham on February 10, 2010

Cheesecakes!

Cheesecake, with a sauce

Made these miniature cheesecakes based on this recipe. What you see on the top of some of them is orange zest and sugar. They came out pretty well, although the ricotta in them is definitely part of a certain way of making cheesecakes, and I didn’t really care for the cookie crust at the bottom. The orange worked really well though, and I also made a raspberry sauce to go with them. One thing I am slowly learning about sauces is that you really have to wait a long time to get them to reduce to the appropriate saucy consistency, and that a ton of whatever ingredients you’re making the saucing out of is required. When the cheesecakes came out of the oven, the cookie crust stuck to the nonstick pan! I used a warm water bath to soften them up enough to come out of the pan. The temperature is important – too hot and it melts the bottom of the cake, too cool and it doesn’t do anything. But it actually doesn’t take very much at all.

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