Justin Dunham

's journal about making things

Osso Buco

Filed under: Cooking Journal — Tags: , , , , , , , — Justin Dunham on March 26, 2012

The dish just before being served. It's braising in a Dutch oven.

The Barolo that we drank with the dish. Great pairing. Particularly full body.

Here’s a great osso buco I made for some friends last fall. The context for this meal was that for our wedding, we asked friends to buy bottles of wine for us instead of wedding presents. When possible, we tried to share those bottles with the purchasers, and maybe even cook for them.

Frequent readers of this blog (or eaters of my cooking) will know that I have a strong inclination toward braised dishes, especially coq au vin, which resembles osso buco in the cooking. Osso buco is one of these, but it has some  twists that I hadn’t experienced before: the use of a bouquet garni, the presence of veal, which I’ve never cooked with before, and, finally you get lucky because your guests get to enjoy the veal marrow after they’ve finished the main dish. For some reason you get credit for this as the cook.

I’ve always been a little intimidated by osso buco, just because I didn’t know how similar the techniques for it were to other dishes I’ve made. Though the sauce was a little watery – I should have spent more time reducing it – it generally came out great. Braised dishes are difficult to screw up, so that wasn’t too surprising.

I served it with a side of cheesy polenta and baked asparagus. The Barolo that went with it stood up well to the rich flavors of the dish; Barolo and osso buco is a pretty typical pairing in the US.

Pâté with balsamic onions, olive oil ice cream and polenta cake, carrot ginger soup with spheres, trout meuniere

Sauteeing some chicken livers with capers, anchovies and oil

Toast components: pâté, pâté with parsley salad, pâté with salad and balsamic onions. Yum!

Trout meuniere and salad with roasted tomatoes.

Polenta cake, olive oil ice cream, and some pears poached in marsala

Had some friends over for dinner last weekend. This meal was my return to serious cooking (I took a break for most of January and February), so I wanted to make it interesting. Also, my fiancée was back in Philadelphia for the weekend, and she loves pâté, so I thought that would be a nice surprise. Accordingly, I made the following:

This was a fun meal to make. Pâté is surprisingly easy, and this one just consisted of chicken livers, capers, anchovies, white wine, and a couple of other things, pureed. That’s it.

Another advantage (besides impressing your significant other) is that if you were to buy a pound of chicken liver pate at the store, it would cost you, what, $10 or $20? A pound of chicken livers costs about $3, and then you add maybe $1 or $2 in additional ingredients to make it yourself. And you know exactly what’s in it.

One other thing, too. By making pate yourself, you might learn to like it if you didn’t already. My original experience with pate, as it was with mayonnaise, is that I found it rather… unpleasant to contemplate. But when I saw what actually goes into it – basically just a few incredibly strong and delicious flavors – and how it’s made, I lost my dislike of it. Pate will probably never be my favorite food, but I definitely have more of an appreciation for it now. The combination of the pate, parsley salad and onions sauteed in balsamic vinegar was also… pretty awesome.

As for the carrot-ginger soup, I’ve made it before. But this time, I added an experimental ingredient. If you add some sodium alginate to a relatively neutral liquid (such as carrot juice, apple cider, or certain other things), and then put drops of the resulting combination into a bath of water and calcium chloride, the liquid immediately becomes solid spheres that burst in your mouth when you bite them. This is exactly the same experience as eating caviar. I will write a separate entry about this later, but I (actually we – I invited everyone to help) performed this procedure with some apple cider, resulting in little spheres of cider that burst in your mouth when you bite them. We then put these spheres in our soup… and also tried putting them in our water as well, which was actually sort of interesting.

I’ve written about trout meuniere before, so I won’t say too much more about that here. I served it along with a simple salad of arugula and some tomatoes that were roasted for an hour or so in oil, garlic and onions. Delicious.

Finally, there’s the dessert. I’ve been waiting to make polenta cake again for quite a while, but I didn’t know what to serve it with; the grapefruit mousse I made last time was not repeatable and not amazing. Recently, I came upon a recipe for olive oil ice cream, which seemed like the perfect complement

Let me tell you, this stuff is weird. First of all, the recipe uses raw egg yolks – no cooking as with normal ice cream. Secondly, it is made out of freaking olive oil. But man, it is really delicious. The first time you take a bite, it tastes a little unexpected. But then you want another bite… and another. I served this whole thing with some pears poached in marsala, which were a good accompaniment but which I’m not sure I’ll make again.

Braised Short Ribs, Beet Chocolate Cake, and Salad with Flowers

Filed under: Cooking Journal — Tags: , , , , , , , , , , — Justin Dunham on June 24, 2010

"Preview salad" of pickled carrots, tomatoes, mozzarella and edible flowers

Salad with tomatoes, blackberries, flowers, and feta cheese

Main course: braised short rib, polenta, braised celery and celery leaf garnish

Chocolate beet cake, vanilla ice cream, and raspberry syrup

About three weeks ago (way behind on posts here), I decided to try my hand at braised short ribs again – they are basically foolproof, and I was cooking for my fiancee and a friend of hers so did not want to screw up too badly :)

The last time I made these ribs, I complained that while they were delicious, I thought the lid had come off the dutch oven, since the vast majority of the sauce seemed to have boiled off.

So this time, I was very careful to make sure the lid was on tight, and to check the ribs as they cooked.

A lot of the sauce did appear to have boiled off again – where it could have gone, I do not know – or to have disappeared or thickened so as to be unrecognizable. However, there was enough left to dress the ribs after they came out, which I wasn’t able to do last time. At the picture of the left, you can see the carrot cubes, for example.

I served the ribs over the same polenta I made last time, and alongside some celery braised in beef stock,
since I happened to have some leftover celery, and since I thought that would go well. I garnished the celery stalks with the trimmed celery leaves. I really like using the culinarily-unconsidered parts of vegetables, such as beet greens, celery flowers, chard stems. I often buy carrots with the tops still attached (cheaper that way), and I would love to try cooking carrot greens sometime. These odds and ends often have, or can be endowed with, good flavor, and they are free!

For a starter salad, I served this summery blackberry salad, with some edible flowers on top. These flowers are available at Whole Foods and probably other grocery stores, and they taste like, um, flowers.

But they’re good. And mostly, they’re a useful cheap trick to make a salad look amazingly colorful and appetizing, which is especially nice in summer. Because my fiancee wanted a snack before dinner, I also made a “preview salad” using some of the same ingredients, along with some tomatoes and mozzarella, and carrots I had been “pickling” (in quotes because I would consider what I did more of a long marinade).

For dessert, I served these chocolate beet cupcakes with some store-bought vanilla ice cream (Haagen-Dazs “Five” was on sale), and a quick raspberry syrup. “Five” is interesting – it’s named that way because it only contains five ingredients: cream, sugar, eggs, milk and in this case vanilla. But why is it so expensive? Is it because other ice creams use fillers or something like that, or add ingredients that extend shelf life?

Beet Salad, Fried Chicken etc., Polenta Cake

Filed under: Cooking Journal — Tags: , , , , , , , , — Justin Dunham on April 6, 2010

The main course.

Beet salad.

Polenta cake, with raspberry and grapefruit mousses.

Last week I made my first three-course meal in a while. First course: Beet salad with candied walnuts and goat cheese. Second course: Fried chicken with macaroni and cheese and beet greens. Third course: Polenta cake.

The beet salad was great. Building on my lessons with canned beets, I bought fresh beets and roasted them myself. The orange juice concentrate in the dressing really does give it a great, syrupy flavor.

Actual beets also often come with free beet greens, which I steamed and then sauteed until they were almost distintegrated. Pretty good.

The polenta cake was in some ways the highlight of the meal. I served it along with some of the mousses I made. Polenta and olive oil are major components of the dish, which results in an extremely moist cake that also has a difficult-to-identify, but wonderful, almost flowery aroma.

Raita-Marinated Salmon, and Succotash

Filed under: Cooking Journal — Tags: , , , , , , , , , , — Justin Dunham on March 24, 2010

A few weeks ago, I made honey-mustard-glazed salmon. My girlfriend said, “you know what would be good? Salmon marinated in raita.”

For those who don’t know, raita is an extremely refreshing mint/cucumber/yogurt sauce that’s often served with certain types of Indian food. I decided to serve this salmon with some succotash, which doesn’t have a recipe as far as I’m concerned – I usually take a bunch of corn, and sautee it with a little basil, cider vinegar, garlic, onion, and tomato, and a whole bunch of other vegetables ad libitum. I used zucchini, carrots and celery because that’s what I had.

That Wikipedia articles says that succotash is supposed to involve corn and beans as a foundation, I guess this makes sense since that I believe that would make succotash a complete protein.

Can we talk about complete proteins for a second? Wikipedia says that “a complete protein (or whole protein) is a source of protein that contains an adequate proportion of all of the essential amino acids for the dietary needs of humans or other animals.” Typically, this is eggs, meat, dairy, etc. This is also a few very rare grains (e.g. quinoa) or vegetables.

You can also make complete proteins, however, by combining two of (a) a grain, (b) a legume, (c) a nut. This combination “explains” in some way a lot of the basic dishes in many cultures. For example, beans and rice. Or corn tortillas and beans. Or beans and toast (English breakfast). Or hummus (chickpeas and sesame seeds). I find it fascinating that humans appeared to have discovered many of these combinations well before understanding their nutritional basis. Others might find it unsurprising!

Anyway, back to the recipe description. So I made the succotash. To try to make it go with the salmon a bit better, I added a little mint and cumin too. This didn’t taste bad, but it was  little strange. I also am not a big cumin fan, so I’ll probably leave that out of the raita next time I make it.

In addition to the succotash and salmon, I also made some more polenta. I am getting hooked on this stuff – really easy to make, and very tasty if you make it with stock. It has one major drawback, which is that when heated it gets very nerflike in texture. You have to spend a lot of time reheating it in a pan, and as far as I can tell also adding some water, to get its original creamy texture back.

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