Justin Dunham

's journal about making things

Terrine

Filed under: Cooking Journal — Tags: , , , , , , — Justin Dunham on June 10, 2011

This is not exactly what a terrine is supposed to look like. Tasty, though!

With the appropriate layering and such.

So, technically a terrine is a layering of ground meat, made into a paste, sometimes with aspic and other components as well (e.g. herbs). But as far as I can tell, the word has come to mean almost any dish that comprises layers of ingredients and is then pressed together within a loaf pan or similar type of pan.

For this terrine, I used roasted peppers and grilled eggplant, as well as mozzarella. The roasted peppers are set under the broiler for ten minutes or so, and rotated occasionally so that the skin chars. They’re put in a paper bag to cool – the paper bag keeps the steam from the peppers from floating away, which loosens the skin and makes the peppers much easier to peel. The result is a soft, slightly smoky, pepper that can easily be sliced and eaten by itself.

For the eggplant, I didn’t have a grill, so I simply sauteed them in a cast-iron pan until they cooked through. Though I tried drizzling oil directly on the eggplant slices, the oil is immediately soaked up which means (a) the slices aren’t evenly oiled, and (b) parts of the eggplant start becoming soggy. Instead, it’s better to brush the oil on.

Putting the terrine in a loaf pan and letting it sit overnight so that it comes together is important as well. Mine fell apart as soon as I started slicing it, so I had to improvise on the presentation. I put the terrine over some tomato sauce, and then surrounded it with some fresh peas (which are surprisingly hard to find!) and mint. The mint and the parsley in the terrine both had a refreshing sweetness that tied the presentation together well.

Coconut cake with hibiscus sauce, salad with pomegranate seeds, salmon and mashed potatoes, duxelles puff pastry

Blanched and peeled pistachios. They look like little avocadoes...

Cake + sauce.

Dried hibiscus flowers. Image by Wikimedia user Thelmadatter.

Salad with pomegranate seeds and red onions.

Salmon with a cream sauce, over mashed potatoes and peas

Wow, this entry is late. Anyway, just before the holidays I had the chance to cook for some people from my class at school, which was really fun.

Let me start at the end and work backwards. Dessert was a coconut cake, with a hibiscus sauce and some toasted pistachios.

Coconut cake’s been on my list for a while now, and I’m glad I finally got a chance to make it. I am also frustrated that I burned the bottom of the cake slightly. There are several ways to test the doneness of a cake, including inserting a toothpick and seeing if it comes out clean (the toothpick test), seeing whether the cake springs back when you depress the top, and also waiting for it to start pulling away from the sides of the pan. I generally use the toothpick test, and I’m worried that I’m being too stringent since things I bake often come out a little overdone. In writing this, I realize the other possible problem is that I am using very long toothpicks that we happen to have. I wonder whether the point of the toothpick test is that it is only supposed to check the middle of the cake?

But what was really fun was making the hibiscus sauce. First of all, hibiscus isn’t that easy to track down, especially in Philadelphia. What saved me were some totally awesome Mexican grocery stores in the Italian Market neighborhood, specifically the one right next to Taqueria Verecruzana at 930 Washington St. They stock an incredible array of stuff in a tiny space! I didn’t really know what hibiscus flowers even looked like but fortunately was able to recognize their Spanish name, jamaica. Oh yeah, and the sauce was really delicious, and a beautiful, deep purple color.

For the main course I baked some salmon and served with a really tasty mashed potato, pearl onion, pea and dill mixture. At the last minute, I figured it could use a sauce, so I whipped something up with lemon, white wine, dill and cream.

Before that, I served an appetizer of mushroom duxelles in puff pastry, with a little thyme and a smoked tomato sauce. Duxelles is basically a mushroom paste with cream and white wine, named after the duke of Uxelles, who employed the chef who created it. (I think it would be a little bit of a stretch to call what I made duxelles, but I’m working on it!) I got the general outline of that recipe here.

And finally, for the salad, I served this pomegranate and spinach salad. I think I have written about this before. Note that it only works with fresh pomegranate seeds, and also almonds really do work better in this recipe than walnuts, which is what I used.

Eight courses

2: Gravlax, cucumber jelly and crackers.

4: Carrot and ginger soup.

5: Coq au vin!

7: Cheese.

8: Banana cardamom ice cream, kiwi sorbet, and honey cookies.

I have many times in the past made 3 course dinners, and a few times I’ve also gotten to 5.

But, fairly soon I won’t be able to spend as much time cooking. So, I thought, why not go for 7? (I later increased this to 8). It took me about three or four days of solid cooking, but overall it went well. Why yes, I am unemployed…

Below is what I served; I made everything from scratch, with only a couple of minor exceptions.

  1. Amuse: Parmesan cracker cones with pea-mint sorbet. These came off alright. I wrapped the parmesan crackers around molds as they cooled, to make small trumpets. I don’t know if I’d make this again, though, something about the texture of the crackers always disappoints.
  2. Appetizer: Cured trout gravlax with cucumber jelly and crackers. See followup entry here.
  3. Salad: Blackberry salad with flowers. Link is to my previous entry on this.
  4. Soup: Carrot ginger soup. This was delicious. This is the first thing I’ve made where I more or less ignored the recipe in order to produce something that tasted really good, and I’m glad I did.
  5. Chicken: Coq au vin. I’ve made this a few times, it’s another great example of the wonderfulness of braising. It makes a good case for the wonderfulness of bacon and red wine, also. I left the chicken in a bit long and it sort of fell apart; need to remember to be more careful here, if you overcook meat and vegetables they still taste good but you lose the texture.
  6. Intermezzo: Marshmallows. See followup entry here.
  7. Cheese: Munster, a raw milk blue, and a cheddar together with grapes and homemade beet jam. See followup entry here.
  8. Dessert: Banana/cardamom/honey ice cream and kiwi sorbet, together with soft honey crackers. These were a great combination; I wanted to serve this together with a coconut-based ice cream (about which I will also be writing an entry soon) but it didn’t work out. I learned that sorbet needs to be eaten within a couple hours after it’s churned, otherwise it starts losing its texture and becomes unpalatably icy in the freezer.

This was a great experience overall, and taught me some important lessons about food timing. One of those lessons, however, is that many things can be made in advance without losing flavor, as long as they are stored carefully. I would add that, having now made this many courses for one dinner, 3 seems like nothing! (For the curious, by the way, we spread these courses out over about 5 hours of eating.)

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