Justin Dunham

's journal about making things

Pâté with balsamic onions, olive oil ice cream and polenta cake, carrot ginger soup with spheres, trout meuniere

Sauteeing some chicken livers with capers, anchovies and oil

Toast components: pâté, pâté with parsley salad, pâté with salad and balsamic onions. Yum!

Trout meuniere and salad with roasted tomatoes.

Polenta cake, olive oil ice cream, and some pears poached in marsala

Had some friends over for dinner last weekend. This meal was my return to serious cooking (I took a break for most of January and February), so I wanted to make it interesting. Also, my fiancée was back in Philadelphia for the weekend, and she loves pâté, so I thought that would be a nice surprise. Accordingly, I made the following:

This was a fun meal to make. Pâté is surprisingly easy, and this one just consisted of chicken livers, capers, anchovies, white wine, and a couple of other things, pureed. That’s it.

Another advantage (besides impressing your significant other) is that if you were to buy a pound of chicken liver pate at the store, it would cost you, what, $10 or $20? A pound of chicken livers costs about $3, and then you add maybe $1 or $2 in additional ingredients to make it yourself. And you know exactly what’s in it.

One other thing, too. By making pate yourself, you might learn to like it if you didn’t already. My original experience with pate, as it was with mayonnaise, is that I found it rather… unpleasant to contemplate. But when I saw what actually goes into it – basically just a few incredibly strong and delicious flavors – and how it’s made, I lost my dislike of it. Pate will probably never be my favorite food, but I definitely have more of an appreciation for it now. The combination of the pate, parsley salad and onions sauteed in balsamic vinegar was also… pretty awesome.

As for the carrot-ginger soup, I’ve made it before. But this time, I added an experimental ingredient. If you add some sodium alginate to a relatively neutral liquid (such as carrot juice, apple cider, or certain other things), and then put drops of the resulting combination into a bath of water and calcium chloride, the liquid immediately becomes solid spheres that burst in your mouth when you bite them. This is exactly the same experience as eating caviar. I will write a separate entry about this later, but I (actually we – I invited everyone to help) performed this procedure with some apple cider, resulting in little spheres of cider that burst in your mouth when you bite them. We then put these spheres in our soup… and also tried putting them in our water as well, which was actually sort of interesting.

I’ve written about trout meuniere before, so I won’t say too much more about that here. I served it along with a simple salad of arugula and some tomatoes that were roasted for an hour or so in oil, garlic and onions. Delicious.

Finally, there’s the dessert. I’ve been waiting to make polenta cake again for quite a while, but I didn’t know what to serve it with; the grapefruit mousse I made last time was not repeatable and not amazing. Recently, I came upon a recipe for olive oil ice cream, which seemed like the perfect complement

Let me tell you, this stuff is weird. First of all, the recipe uses raw egg yolks – no cooking as with normal ice cream. Secondly, it is made out of freaking olive oil. But man, it is really delicious. The first time you take a bite, it tastes a little unexpected. But then you want another bite… and another. I served this whole thing with some pears poached in marsala, which were a good accompaniment but which I’m not sure I’ll make again.

White Russian ice cream and blueberry coffee cake, trout meuniere, carrot-ginger/potato-leek harlequin soup, and other things

Harlequin soup - right is carrot ginger, left is potato leek.

Collard green salad.

Trout meuniere with a mustard cream sauce, broccoli, and cauliflower gratin.

Blueberry coffee cake and White Russian ice cream.

A while ago, I made a four-course dinner with the following courses: a kale salad with bacon, a harlequin soup (half carrot-ginger and half potato-leek), trout meuniere with cauliflower gratin and broccoli, and finally blueberry coffee cake with White Russian ice cream. Whew!

The harlequin soup came out well as usual – the flavors of the carrot-ginger soup and potato-leek soup actually went together pretty well. The salad was interesting – I was supposed to use kale, and only had access to collard greens. Raw collard greens, that’s right. I would probably reconsider making this salad, although one of the things you do to make the greens softer is pour very hot bacon grease over them. It actually went together pretty well, and the bacon is sort of a “reward” for getting through the greens.

The trout and sauce were simple to make and delicious, as was the cauliflower gratin (probably incredibly unhealthy but great). The trout is basically breaded sole meunière (with trout instead of sole), so named because the fish is coated in flour before it is cooked – the meunière is the miller’s wife.

Finally, the White Russian ice cream. I don’t usually use recipes from Rachael Ray, but I was thinking of doing something along these lines and wanted to use something that would definitely work. The White Russian flavor is extremely apparent and delicious, and it goes particularly well in an ice cream format because of the cream that normally goes into a White Russian. It can – and should – be used anywhere vanilla ice cream is!

Tarragon Chicken, Parsnips and Carrots, and Asparagus

Filed under: Cooking Journal — Tags: , , , , , — Justin Dunham on July 4, 2010

The completed dish.

On the morning I planned to cook this meal, I got distracted by something else, and didn’t have enough time left before dinner to finish (3-course meals typically take me all day). So I decided to come up with something simpler for dinner that night.

I made this chicken with asparagus, together with this recipe for carrot and parsnip “coins”. Very healthy, and relatively easy to make now that I understand exactly what to do. I’ve also always wanted to cook parsnips. I would describe them as tasting like sweet carrots.

One problem I ran into is that parsnips and carrots aren’t exactly the same shape (parsnips have a much thicker top), so I had to get rid of a few pieces that would have taken much longer to cook than the rest of the carrot and parsnip slices. In retrospect this probably wasn’t necessary.

Also, I should note that the recipe is totally unrealistic about the amount of space chicken cutlets and asparagus take up on baking trays – this is a 3-tray meal for sure.

Watermelon curry and mustard-glazed salmon

Filed under: Cooking Journal — Tags: , , , , , , — Justin Dunham on February 25, 2010

Preparing the watermelon curry.

The complete dish.

A couple of days ago I made watermelon curry, with cucumber, on a bed of rice with cinnamon and raisins, together with this mustard-glazed salmon. Everything went together well because it was all rather sweet. Though I had never thought of watermelon as a savory ingredient before, it also worked pretty well in that role.

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