Justin Dunham

's journal about making things

Terrine

Filed under: Cooking Journal — Tags: , , , , , , — Justin Dunham on June 10, 2011

This is not exactly what a terrine is supposed to look like. Tasty, though!

With the appropriate layering and such.

So, technically a terrine is a layering of ground meat, made into a paste, sometimes with aspic and other components as well (e.g. herbs). But as far as I can tell, the word has come to mean almost any dish that comprises layers of ingredients and is then pressed together within a loaf pan or similar type of pan.

For this terrine, I used roasted peppers and grilled eggplant, as well as mozzarella. The roasted peppers are set under the broiler for ten minutes or so, and rotated occasionally so that the skin chars. They’re put in a paper bag to cool – the paper bag keeps the steam from the peppers from floating away, which loosens the skin and makes the peppers much easier to peel. The result is a soft, slightly smoky, pepper that can easily be sliced and eaten by itself.

For the eggplant, I didn’t have a grill, so I simply sauteed them in a cast-iron pan until they cooked through. Though I tried drizzling oil directly on the eggplant slices, the oil is immediately soaked up which means (a) the slices aren’t evenly oiled, and (b) parts of the eggplant start becoming soggy. Instead, it’s better to brush the oil on.

Putting the terrine in a loaf pan and letting it sit overnight so that it comes together is important as well. Mine fell apart as soon as I started slicing it, so I had to improvise on the presentation. I put the terrine over some tomato sauce, and then surrounded it with some fresh peas (which are surprisingly hard to find!) and mint. The mint and the parsley in the terrine both had a refreshing sweetness that tied the presentation together well.

Beet and Carrot Salad, Green Tea Cheesecake, and Roasted Chicken

Filed under: Cooking Journal — Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , — Justin Dunham on January 8, 2011

Cheesecake with green tea leaves and raspberry / mint garnish

Beet and carrot salad, with plenty of parsley

Before... you can see the chicken in the center, coated with a honey-mustard mixture and surrounded by tomato, red onion, and rosemary and thyme

...and after.

Between exams, other projects, and travel I hadn’t really been in a kitchen for a little while. So I decided to cook something, even though I’m away from home at the moment (in Portland).

Other people’s kitchens make me a little nervous – I can’t count on things that I need being available when I need them. So I decided to make some dishes that I could make without too many special implements. This meant a beet and carrot salad, roast chicken with tomatoes and onions, and a cheesecake.

I decided to go with this green tea cheesecake since I was also looking for an excuse to go to a nearby location of the amazing Asian supermarket Uwajimaya. I freaking love Uwajimaya. If I lived in Portland, it’s where I would shop even though it’s about an hour of extra travel. They have incredible fresh seafood of all types, as well as lots of really interesting fruit – fresh rambutan, lotus root, and buddha’s hand, anyone? I was pretty close to making a last-minute decision to incorporate some of these ingredients in what I cooked, but given that Epicurious had only one recipe including dragonfruit, I decided to wait.

Anyway, so, cheesecake, chicken, and beet and carrot salad. The beet and carrot salad recipe was fairly intimidating, even though I really like roasting beets from scratch. I decided to dispense with most of the complexity of the recipe, particularly the idea of buying golden and red beets and making a separate dressing for each.

Instead, I bought only red beets and made one dressing for the whole thing, combining the ingredients of the dressings from the recipe. I used cumin, shallots, lemon juice, balsamic vinegar, and olive oil. I also decided to use a ton of parsley, since it was getting overshadowed by everything else, but lends a really nice fresh flavor to the salad. The recipe calls for leaving the tops of the carrots on while you roast them. This also looks pretty nice, but I’m not sure it was worth the trouble.

The chicken was fun – I’ve never roasted a whole one before. I started with this Easy Provencal Lamb recipe from the Barefoot Contessa, who’s usually pretty reliable. But when I got to the store, I found that bone-in lamb now costs $10 per pound. So for 7 pounds… yeah. A chicken that could feed everyone cost me 10% of that price. I removed the giblets – had never done that before, and they weren’t even bagged. This was less disturbing than I thought it would be. I then smothered the chicken in the honey-mustard sauce and put it in the roasting pan. The chicken gets surrounded by diced tomatoes and onions in oil and honey.

Interestingly, it turns out I put the chicken in the roasting pan upside-down. Apparently, people do this on purpose, because it helps keep the meat moist, especially in this case since the chicken was basically poaching in all the collected liquid from the tomatoes, onions, and sauce. So the chicken came out really well.

Uh, the second time, that is. As soon as we cut into it the first time, it turned out was still raw! How embarrassing. I had used the “juices run clear” test, which it turns out is not accurate. Instead, insert a meat thermometer in the thigh, and wait until the internal temperature reads 165 degrees. I promise your chicken will not dry out (well, it won’t dry out because you cooked it fully – I can’t guarantee it won’t dry out for other reasons). Once I cooked it through again, it was fine. Overall, I recommend 425 or 450 degrees for an hour or 90 minutes.

The cheesecake may have been the best part of the meal, and it was certainly the easiest. Cheesecakes are made from a simple batter which includes cream cheese, sugar, and eggs. In this case, we also added crushed-up green tea leaves, and some greek yogurt. These were both substitutes for the far more expensive ingredients that the recipe calls for: powdered green tea and fromage blanc. The green tea complements the savoriness of the cheesecake really nicely, as does the shortbread crust. All three of shortbread, green tea, and cheesecake straddle this savory / sweet line pretty well.

The cheesecake is garnished with raspberries and mint, and you serve it with a tea, also made from raspberries and mint. I was pretty skeptical about this, but it actually tasted pretty good along with the cake.

Eight courses

2: Gravlax, cucumber jelly and crackers.

4: Carrot and ginger soup.

5: Coq au vin!

7: Cheese.

8: Banana cardamom ice cream, kiwi sorbet, and honey cookies.

I have many times in the past made 3 course dinners, and a few times I’ve also gotten to 5.

But, fairly soon I won’t be able to spend as much time cooking. So, I thought, why not go for 7? (I later increased this to 8). It took me about three or four days of solid cooking, but overall it went well. Why yes, I am unemployed…

Below is what I served; I made everything from scratch, with only a couple of minor exceptions.

  1. Amuse: Parmesan cracker cones with pea-mint sorbet. These came off alright. I wrapped the parmesan crackers around molds as they cooled, to make small trumpets. I don’t know if I’d make this again, though, something about the texture of the crackers always disappoints.
  2. Appetizer: Cured trout gravlax with cucumber jelly and crackers. See followup entry here.
  3. Salad: Blackberry salad with flowers. Link is to my previous entry on this.
  4. Soup: Carrot ginger soup. This was delicious. This is the first thing I’ve made where I more or less ignored the recipe in order to produce something that tasted really good, and I’m glad I did.
  5. Chicken: Coq au vin. I’ve made this a few times, it’s another great example of the wonderfulness of braising. It makes a good case for the wonderfulness of bacon and red wine, also. I left the chicken in a bit long and it sort of fell apart; need to remember to be more careful here, if you overcook meat and vegetables they still taste good but you lose the texture.
  6. Intermezzo: Marshmallows. See followup entry here.
  7. Cheese: Munster, a raw milk blue, and a cheddar together with grapes and homemade beet jam. See followup entry here.
  8. Dessert: Banana/cardamom/honey ice cream and kiwi sorbet, together with soft honey crackers. These were a great combination; I wanted to serve this together with a coconut-based ice cream (about which I will also be writing an entry soon) but it didn’t work out. I learned that sorbet needs to be eaten within a couple hours after it’s churned, otherwise it starts losing its texture and becomes unpalatably icy in the freezer.

This was a great experience overall, and taught me some important lessons about food timing. One of those lessons, however, is that many things can be made in advance without losing flavor, as long as they are stored carefully. I would add that, having now made this many courses for one dinner, 3 seems like nothing! (For the curious, by the way, we spread these courses out over about 5 hours of eating.)

Raita-Marinated Salmon, and Succotash

Filed under: Cooking Journal — Tags: , , , , , , , , , , — Justin Dunham on March 24, 2010

A few weeks ago, I made honey-mustard-glazed salmon. My girlfriend said, “you know what would be good? Salmon marinated in raita.”

For those who don’t know, raita is an extremely refreshing mint/cucumber/yogurt sauce that’s often served with certain types of Indian food. I decided to serve this salmon with some succotash, which doesn’t have a recipe as far as I’m concerned – I usually take a bunch of corn, and sautee it with a little basil, cider vinegar, garlic, onion, and tomato, and a whole bunch of other vegetables ad libitum. I used zucchini, carrots and celery because that’s what I had.

That Wikipedia articles says that succotash is supposed to involve corn and beans as a foundation, I guess this makes sense since that I believe that would make succotash a complete protein.

Can we talk about complete proteins for a second? Wikipedia says that “a complete protein (or whole protein) is a source of protein that contains an adequate proportion of all of the essential amino acids for the dietary needs of humans or other animals.” Typically, this is eggs, meat, dairy, etc. This is also a few very rare grains (e.g. quinoa) or vegetables.

You can also make complete proteins, however, by combining two of (a) a grain, (b) a legume, (c) a nut. This combination “explains” in some way a lot of the basic dishes in many cultures. For example, beans and rice. Or corn tortillas and beans. Or beans and toast (English breakfast). Or hummus (chickpeas and sesame seeds). I find it fascinating that humans appeared to have discovered many of these combinations well before understanding their nutritional basis. Others might find it unsurprising!

Anyway, back to the recipe description. So I made the succotash. To try to make it go with the salmon a bit better, I added a little mint and cumin too. This didn’t taste bad, but it was  little strange. I also am not a big cumin fan, so I’ll probably leave that out of the raita next time I make it.

In addition to the succotash and salmon, I also made some more polenta. I am getting hooked on this stuff – really easy to make, and very tasty if you make it with stock. It has one major drawback, which is that when heated it gets very nerflike in texture. You have to spend a lot of time reheating it in a pan, and as far as I can tell also adding some water, to get its original creamy texture back.

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