Justin Dunham

's journal about making things

Catering 2

One of these days I need to learn how to work a grill.

Cornbread and (in the background) a couple of different types of salads. I made too much cornbread, but people were happy to take it home with them...

Tres leches and strawberry country cakes.

Note: This is a followup to this post.

A month or so ago, I wrote about some of the constraints I faced with catering a barbecue for 40 out of my tiny Philadelphia kitchen. (Seriously, I think the kitchen is about 30 square feet, including all counter space, oven, and fridge). In this entry, I’ll talk about my experience in cooking and how everything turned out.

One thing that is surprisingly difficult to do in cooking is scaling a recipe. I mean, it’s not too hard for things like salad where you just multiply out the ingredients, or for soup. But when you’re baking things – and that can be cakes, pastries, or lots of savory dishes as well – things often don’t turn out the way you expect. For example, these miniature carrot souffles still take the 11 minutes to bake that a full-sized souffle does. I recently made some beet donuts (more on that later), and same deal, the miniaturization does nothing.

Those are easy examples, because the timing changes but everything else is fine. More heart-rendingly, take note of my experience with cauliflower gratin, which I attempted to make at approximately triple the size (i.e. three portions in a 3x baking dish).

Disaster. The dish is basically cauliflower in a rich cheese sauce. It seemed to bake fine, though it took an abnormally long time. I waited an hour or so for it to cool, and as it cooled… the sauce separated. Instead of a thick, pudding-like sauce, I ended up with a layer of fat on the bottom, and pools of grease on the top, of the dish. The grease then soaked through all of the ingredients, creating an inedible, soggy messy. I had to throw it away! Six cauliflowers’ worth of gratin, gone. I’m not sure exactly what happened, but I guess the lesson is, don’t scale if you don’t have to. It would have been much better to just cook a bunch of normally-sized portions.

The other lesson is to make lots of different things; because I had done this, losing one dish didn’t matter. And actually, my experience with the cornbread I made was the opposite – the vastly scaled-up sheets (the recipe isn’t even for bread, it’s for muffins) were some of the best cornbread I have ever made, with a soft, moist interior and a slightly crunchy top.

Overall, the meal seems to have gone pretty well. The avocado and tomato salad, cornbread, and deviled eggs were devoured. Part of the art, of course, is to pick things that are difficult to screw up, which worked in my favor. People seemed to have an aversion to the potato salad; I couldn’t figure out why. The cakes I made didn’t get finished either (actually only about half of each cake was consumed), but I did hear several people struggle with their inability to put down their fork, despite being stuffed. Overriding your eaters’ free will is every chef’s main goal.

Catering

Shopping list...

The ingredients for ten pounds of potato salad

This is about half of the shopping I did

Note: Part 2 of this post is here.

On this blog, I write a lot about dinners for two, and more recently dinners for five, seven, etc. I suppose it was inevitable that I would eventually end up catering a 40-person barbecue. Yes, inevitable!

So, when the opportunity arose to feed about half of my Wharton cohort, I took it. This doesn’t mean, reader, that I organized logistics for getting food to this event. I actually took a few days out and made all the food. This is possibly the best job I have ever had.

This first entry will be about the setup for the event, and then I’ll write another one about what I learned in trying to scale my recipes to feed more people and how everything turned out (pretty well).

Fortunately,  barbecues are pretty much the easiest possible events to cater as a newbie. The atmosphere is casual, people are relaxed, everything can be served at the same time, and everything is either served at room temperature or cooked a la minute. You may even be lucky enough – as I was – to have several very skilled grillmasters who will actually do the cooking for you.

Still, I had to think carefully about what to make. Here were my constraints:

  • Tiny kitchen. Seriously, it’s about 30′ square and that is including the floor space taken up by cabinets, the fridge, oven, etc. Storage would, therefore, be an issue – I couldn’t make massive quantities of food in advance that had to be refrigerated, and everything would have to be made sequentially since I didn’t have prep room for more than one dish at a time.
  • Limited time and resources. It was just me doing the cooking! So I’d have to be able to prepare a lot of things in advance, and I couldn’t do anything too complicated.
  • Transportation. Everything had to be packaged for, and survive, a 30-minute car trip to the barbecue site.

I thought about, and then rejected, several dishes such as biscuits (only really good right out of the oven, definitely wouldn’t keep overnight) and camp bananas (didn’t have time to make the truly prodigious quantities of marshmallows required). Fortunately I didn’t have to get too creative and ended up with a pretty good list of barbecue favorites:

The next problem was buying ingredients. Since I used to be an investment banker, when confronted with most problems I immediately think: “Excel”. (This is true even though I quit quite a few years ago). Anyway, I made the giant spreadsheet you see pictured on the left to keep track of everything. In retrospect, I ended up overbuying a few things – a mistake in a recipe also almost caused me to buy 17 cups of paprika (at least $200 worth).

I had to be careful to buy things in a deliberate sequence, since (a) I couldn’t carry everything home at once, and (b) some things like avocadoes had to be bought early so they could ripen, whereas fresh berries had to be bought just before using them.

Finally, I had to schedule everything properly. Some things, like the avocado salad, I had to make the day of. Other things, like the cornbread and the cakes, I could make several days before. And then a few other things could be partially made in advance, and finished closer to the time – I made the potato salad and barbecue sauce, and marinated the chicken, the night before; I glazed the cakes the morning of the event, etc.

Harlequin Pepper Soup, Fried Tomatillos, Fajitas, Jicama and Ice Cream

Harlequin pepper soup with fried tomatillos.

The main course.

Tomatillos.

Peppers, ready for simmering. Note that the waxy membrane has been removed.

Grilling peppers and onions.

Deliciously repurposed leftovers.

Recently I cooked probably my most complex meal yet. The first course was a harlequin pepper soup with a slide of fried tomatillos. For the main, I made fajitas together with an orange salsa, and sliced jicama. Finally, for dessert I made ice cream! (Strawberry ice cream, and basil-lime sorbet, which I talk about in detail here). Let’s take each piece by itself:

Soup and tomatillos

One of the very first things I ever seriously cooked was a “harlequin soup”, half tomato and half yellow pepper. What is a harlequin soup? Check out this link for an example. You make 2 separate soups, with similar consistency. If you pour them simultaneously into the opposite ends of a bowl, the soups will not mix, and you get a beautiful color effect. (You could probably do this with more than 2 soups, but they all need to be poured simultaneously).

Normally you do this in order to serve 2 separate soups simultaneously. However, I decided to make 2 soups that tasted exactly the same, using 2 different colors of pepper in this recipe.

Since I essentially had to make this recipe twice, each one with a tiny quantity of peppers and half the normal ingredients, it took forever. But I think sometimes it’s worth it to do something complicated if the result is especially beautiful. (Whether this is one of those times I leave to you to judge).

Together with the soup, I served this fried green tomatillo recipe. I wanted to make normal fried green tomatoes, but couldn’t find them locally. Tomatillos were a great substitute, and they went well with the main course since they were fried in cornmeal.

One note about frying these: you really shouldn’t do it for very long. If they start losing their color, it’s too long. Slight tenderness is desirable; anything more than that quickly become sogginess. Another note: this was the day I finally learned about smoke points.

Fajitas

Fajitas are delicious. They also use a relatively cheap cut of meat, which is great (I talk more about that here). I used Tyler Florence’s “Ultimate” recipe – these are usually pretty reliable. The mojo (marinade) he proposes is also ridiculously delicious, being composed mostly of pureed chipotle peppers in adobo sauce. Check out the Wikipedia article for adobo to see what I was dealing with.

Preparing the ingredients for the fajita was interesting. I needed to grill quite a bit of meat, though I do not have an outdoor grill. I used my cast iron pan, and I must say thank our dinner guests for being extremely game; the apartment quickly filled up with thin smoke and we all coughed heavily for about 20 minutes. Still, it was worth it in deliciousness. The peppers and onions took another couple of minutes. Finally, I grilled each tortilla on an electric burner for about thirty seconds.

The sides were fairly simple. I used the clementine salsa from this recipe (substituting oranges), and I also cut up some jicama, which I tossed with cilantro and a couple of other ingredients. Jicama, for any readers who don’t know, is also known as “Mexican potato”, and tastes mostly that way. It is, however, usually eaten raw.

For dessert – ice cream! Again, I’ll refer you to that entry for more. Oh, and the next morning my fiancee cooked up some of the leftover fajita ingredients with sour cream and eggs for breakfast. Most delicious breakfast I’ve had in quite a while.

Creative Commons License
.