Justin Dunham

's journal about making things

Apple tarte tatin, lamb stew and stuffed peppers

Filed under: Cooking Journal — Tags: , , , , , , , , — Justin Dunham on October 12, 2010

Lamb stew with some leeks, potatoes and Trader Joe's jalapeno bread. Not at all seasonal!

This pepper is stuffed with cheese, corn, scallions and tomatoes.

Tarte tatin with some homemade vanilla ice cream.

This entry is about a meal that I made in September, but didn’t get around to writing about, until now. Basically I wanted to take another shot at a tarte tatin, and I thought it might be interesting to try a lamb stew as well. (The stuffed peppers were an easy addition).

The tarte tatin came out really well. I still had to do the dangerous work of inverting a 400-degree pan, but I solved some of the problems I faced last time (the dough melting over the hot apples before I could get it back in the oven). For some reason, the recipe suggests putting a glaze on the top of the dough after it’s placed over the apples. I’m not sure why this is, since you don’t see the bottom at all after it’s gone in the oven.

I had never made a whole bunch of stew, and then frozen it, and eaten it later, but now I understand why people do this! It was hearty and went well with some jalapeno-cheese bread that we bought at TJ’s, and we’ve been eating it from time to time ever since. Stuffed peppers are, well, stuffed peppers, I’ve written about them a few times before.

Dinner for seven

Filed under: Cooking Journal — Tags: , , , , , , , , , , — Justin Dunham on September 18, 2010

Roasted tomatoes stuffed with scallions and corn.

Risotto on the simmer.

In late August I had the wonderful opportunity to make dinner for seven! I invited several of my classmates over so we could all get to know each other and finish up a class project.

I made things I’ve made before: carrot soup, stuffed tomatoes, braised celery, braised short ribs and beet risotto. Old favorites, you might even call them. I picked these because they’re relatively easy to make – and because I’ve made them so many times before I’d be unlikely to screw them up!

Culinarily, one thing that was interesting is that we had a vegetarian joining us. Cooking for vegetarians is a brand-new experience for me. To make it work, I substituted vegetable stock for the chicken stock I usually use in making risotto, and for the beef stock I usually use when braising celery.

Vegetable stock definitely does not work quite as well for risotto. You lose a certain savoriness. I may try mushroom stock next time, or half mushroom, half vegetable, to get that back. Vegetable stock also attenuates the color a bit – the risotto at the bottom of the pan started to turn orange!

However, I would argue that braised celery tastes even better with vegetable stock. If you ignore the directions to cover the pan (which I did), the stock boils off a bit, leaving you with a nice, syrupy, vaguely-tomato sauce.

Logistically, this was the only the second time I’ve cooked for more than 3 people, and I also had barely any time on the day of to completely the dishes. To resolve this, I tried to pick stuff that is either very quick to make (braised celery and to a certain extent beet risotto) or that can be made overnight (short ribs and carrot soup). Braised dishes actually tend to taste better the day after they are cooked, which was the case this time also. Something about the dispersion of the various sapid molecules, maybe?

I would guess that I spent an entire workday or so actually making the dishes, which is fairly typical when I make a complex dish – the additional servings add more time, but not twice as much to make twice as many servings, for example. Eventually, I will need to learn to reduce cooking times. I wonder how many times I have to make a dish before this happens?

Finally, I also struggled with how many servings to make. I didn’t want anyone to go hungry. On the other hand, we have been sort of overwhelmed by the amount of leftovers we’ve had lately, and I wanted to avoid that too. I actually ended up simply doubling what I normally make for me and my fiancee (which usually results in several days of leftovers). This seemed to work pretty well.

One final note: To make risotto, you essentially just spoon hot broth into hot risotto rice, wait until the broth is absorbed, and repeat. I have been skipping heating the broth before pouring it in, because it saves a little time and you end up with one fewer pot to clean. But I think this may be a big mistake. The risotto took almost an hour to make (instead of 30 minutes), and I am guessing this may be because the cool broth “shocks” the hot rice, leading to a protracted period of re-warming before anything else can be absorbed.

Radish risotto, chicken paillard, cardamom carrots

Filed under: Cooking Journal — Tags: , , , , , , , , — Justin Dunham on September 11, 2010

The dish. You can see the radish risotto (the julienned radishes are just visible) in the back. For some reason, I put the chicken beneath the avocado slices, so you can't see it as well. Next time, I will serve about half as much avocado, or maybe turn it into some kind of salsa.

For a single-course dinner a couple weeks ago, I made the following: chicken paillards, carrots roasted with cardamom, and radish risotto. I served all of this with an avocado and some leftover corn salsa.

I had to improvise a little bit. The grocery-store situation in Philadelphia is a little touch-and-go, so I couldn’t get the parsnips – and indeed potatoes – called for in the recipe I linked above! So I decided to just go with the carrots. Similarly, I had some chicken thighs,  but I didn’t feel like roasting them. So I cut them off the bone, flattened them, and seared them quickly (about 3 minutes, maybe a little more, on each side).

As far as the individual components, everything came out really well. The paillards in particular stayed juicy and had a particularly intense chicken flavor. I love radishes, and the risotto recipe allows them to retain a little kick, and a lot of crunchiness. The colors are also beautiful. My only complaint is that the recipe calls for too much cheese, I think.

Evaluating the dinner as a whole, there were many things I liked about it. The flavors were uniformly delicious. They married pretty well together, even though the components aren’t drawn from the same cuisines. I care a lot about color when I cook, and the food was almost a full rainbow – red (radishes), orange (carrots), yellow and green (avocadoes), brown and off-white (chicken and rice).

However, I ran into some presentation issues. As you can see in the picture above, I put the avocadoes on top of the chicken. This actually looked nicer than putting the avocado under the chicken, which I also tried. It certainly isn’t unappetizing, it’s just a little confusing. I think next time I will either serve a bit less avocado, or maybe make it into some kind of salsa as a substitute for the corn salsa. The problem is that (a) the chicken really needs some kind of sauce, but (b) the avocado goes so well with all the other savory components that it seems a shame to leave it out.

Borscht, scallops and succotash, and gingerbread trifle

Filed under: Cooking Journal — Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , — Justin Dunham on September 6, 2010

Building the trifle. I have put down the first layer of gingerbread cubes in the bowl on the right, which will be covered with the lemon curd mixture and blackberry sauce on the left, then more gingerbread...

The mostly complete trifle.

Borscht. Check out that color!

Succotash and scallops.

Very soon after having moved to Philadelphia, I made the following meal: borscht, scallops with succotash, and gingerbread trifle.

This was my first meal in a new kitchen, so I thought I’d go with something simple. Borscht is a delicious beet soup with the typical awesome magenta beet color, and it’s pretty easy to make. The only time-consuming thing is boiling the beets, which takes quite a while.

(On an unrelated sidenote, according to the Wikipedia article there are apparently other types of borscht that involve tomatoes or sorrel. Amazingly, sour cream, which is a typical borscht ingredient, reacts with the molecules in sorrel that cause a sour taste, neutralizing them.)

Succotash is a mixture of vegetables such as corn, lima beans, and zucchini; scallops are sauteed for a few minutes and served on top. The first time I made this I used jumbo scallops, which are quite large but which are also extremely expensive. This time, I just used small ones.

Dessert was the most complicated piece, as it often is, because it is the most important. (I am only half-joking).

In general, a trifle is “a dessert dish made from… custard, fruit, sponge cake, fruit juice or gelatin, and whipped cream”, arranged in layers (Wikipedia). In this case, the trifle is made from lemon curd, gingerbread baked from scratch, and a blackberry sauce.

The flavors go really well together. You get the sweetness of the gingerbread first, which is balanced by the lemon curd, and finally the tart blackberry sauce hits you. As time goes on, the flavors and textures come together even more. This is very similar to banana pudding, which I would argue is also a kind of trifle.

Raita-Marinated Salmon, and Succotash

Filed under: Cooking Journal — Tags: , , , , , , , , , , — Justin Dunham on March 24, 2010

A few weeks ago, I made honey-mustard-glazed salmon. My girlfriend said, “you know what would be good? Salmon marinated in raita.”

For those who don’t know, raita is an extremely refreshing mint/cucumber/yogurt sauce that’s often served with certain types of Indian food. I decided to serve this salmon with some succotash, which doesn’t have a recipe as far as I’m concerned – I usually take a bunch of corn, and sautee it with a little basil, cider vinegar, garlic, onion, and tomato, and a whole bunch of other vegetables ad libitum. I used zucchini, carrots and celery because that’s what I had.

That Wikipedia articles says that succotash is supposed to involve corn and beans as a foundation, I guess this makes sense since that I believe that would make succotash a complete protein.

Can we talk about complete proteins for a second? Wikipedia says that “a complete protein (or whole protein) is a source of protein that contains an adequate proportion of all of the essential amino acids for the dietary needs of humans or other animals.” Typically, this is eggs, meat, dairy, etc. This is also a few very rare grains (e.g. quinoa) or vegetables.

You can also make complete proteins, however, by combining two of (a) a grain, (b) a legume, (c) a nut. This combination “explains” in some way a lot of the basic dishes in many cultures. For example, beans and rice. Or corn tortillas and beans. Or beans and toast (English breakfast). Or hummus (chickpeas and sesame seeds). I find it fascinating that humans appeared to have discovered many of these combinations well before understanding their nutritional basis. Others might find it unsurprising!

Anyway, back to the recipe description. So I made the succotash. To try to make it go with the salmon a bit better, I added a little mint and cumin too. This didn’t taste bad, but it was  little strange. I also am not a big cumin fan, so I’ll probably leave that out of the raita next time I make it.

In addition to the succotash and salmon, I also made some more polenta. I am getting hooked on this stuff – really easy to make, and very tasty if you make it with stock. It has one major drawback, which is that when heated it gets very nerflike in texture. You have to spend a lot of time reheating it in a pan, and as far as I can tell also adding some water, to get its original creamy texture back.

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