Justin Dunham

's journal about making things

Making Fondant

Filed under: Cooking Journal — Tags: , , , , , , — Justin Dunham on March 27, 2011

The completed cupcakes. Each has an orange fondant hexagon on it.

Rolling out the fondant...

Filling the cupcakes with lemon curd. You can see I've cut a cone-shaped piece out of the top of each cupcake, which the curd goes into. The top is replaced, and the cupcake is iced.

Confectioners' sugar and cake flour. Both boxes have the same freaking cake on them! In fact, I think the slice on the Swan's Down box may have been taken from the cake on the Domino's box! This, for some reason, is why I confused them.

You may have a hard time finding this. But you definitely need it. Check the skin care aisle.

A couple months ago, I got accepted to a group called Hive 76, which is kind of the local nexus for people who are interested in DIY 3D printing and lots of other cool things as well. To celebrate actually being accepted, I thought I’d bring some cupcakes to their Open House.

The cupcake batter was basic red velvet batter, which has a sort of savoryish taste that I really like. It’s easy to fill cupcakes – you just cut a cone out of the top, add your filling, then put the top of the cupcake back on. So I figured I’d put some lemon curd in as well, since it’s really cheap at Trader Joe’s, tastes great, and helps counteract the dryness that sometimes happens when I make baked goods in my oven.

(I learned a very helpful piece of information about baking in relation to this, by the way – when you are doing the toothpick test, you only need to push the toothpick about halfway through whatever you’re baking. Only halfway! This makes a lot of sense, since what you’re checking is that the inside of the cake is done cooking. Pushing the toothpick through the cake should theoretically work, I guess, since the outer layers of the cake shouldn’t leave any residue on a toothpick if the inner layers don’t. However, it doesn’t seem to work this way in practice, so my cakes always ended up overdone. Good to know.)

Anyway, on top of each cupcake I decided to put a hexagon made of orange fondant, since that is the Hive76 logo – thought this would be an interesting excuse to actually make some fondant. I have to say, a lot of my cooking is actually motivated by curiosity as to how something is made, or a desire to make something, rather than the eating part. Though that is good too.

Making fondant is very similar to making dough, except that every time you’d want to put in a normal ingredient, you put in something sugary instead. Instead of flour, use powdered sugar. Instead of eggs, use glycerin.  One huge mistake I made on the first run was using cake flour instead of powdered sugar – the boxes are virtually identical! I kind of wish I had finished with that recipe, though… would have been interesting to see what happened.

Overall, it’s not that difficult to do, and I was able to finish the fondant without too much trouble (though it does require a hell of a lot of food coloring). One important piece of information is that if you are ever looking for glycerin – and you will be looking for it if you make fondant – you have to go to a pharmacy to get it. Once you’re at the pharmacy, check the skin care aisle.

Why skin care? Glycerin is used primarily as a remedy for chapped lips. This means its safe to eat, and I guess its moistening properties are part of why it’s an essential component of fondant.

Trying to understand “Dutch-process” cocoa

Filed under: Cooking Journal — Tags: , , , — Justin Dunham on February 14, 2010

Cocoa beans, slightly crused. By flickr user cstrom (link goes to flickr page)

When I was making this caramel and chocolate cake, the recipe called for “Dutch-process” cocoa, which I have never heard of before (and which isn’t stocked in my local supermarket).

According to this page and some other reading I’ve done, cocoa is naturally acidic. Dutch-process cocoa is treated with alkalines to neutralize that acidity. What does this mean? According to AB, the Dutch process:

  • Mellows the flavor by removing some of the cocoa’s bitterness,
  • Changes the color somewhat, and
  • Increases the cocoa’s solubility in liquids. (I think Dutch process cocoa is basically what you use when you are making hot chocolate from scratch, i.e. without a mix such as Swiss Miss, but I could be wrong).

As I mentioned, I didn’t have Dutch-process cocoa but the recipe called for it. What would the effects of a substitution be?

  • First of all, because unsweetened natural cocoa (which is what I had on hand) is more bitter, the cake would be a little more bitter.
  • Secondly, because the cocoa I was using was more alkaline, it would react more strongly with the (basic) baking soda I used, causing the cake to rise more than it otherwise would – the reaction between acid and base causes carbon dioxide to form, as you can see when you mix vinegar and baking soda.

Trying a substitution, and questions about whether it would work

I read somewhere that you can add 1/8 teaspoon of baking soda for every 1 oz (3 tablespoons) of regular cocoa powder to get an acceptable substitute for Dutch-processed cocoa, and so I tried this. However:

  • I was confused about why this would work. I guess the theory is that the baking soda and the acid in the natural cocoa will cancel out and so you’ll have something closer to Dutch-process cocoa, chemically.
  • But, wouldn’t the additional baking soda, since the acid and base will react in the oven, actually increase the additional leavening action, since more reagent is available?
  • I guess it depends on the reaction ratio between the cocoa acid and the baking soda, and whether one or the other is “used up” – if the baking soda is all able to react with the cocoa, it should actually produce more leavening rather than less.

From a flavor perspective, I also don’t understand how the baking soda would mellow the bitterness of the cake, but that is just from a lack of knowledge rather than confusion.

And then finally, perhaps I am overthinking things. The Wikipedia article explaining the Dutch process for making cocoa powder seems to just say that in the Dutch process “alkalis are added to the cocoa”, so maybe it is a really simple process, and the addition of baking soda to cocoa powder can stand in for it, when everything combines in the oven? Not sure.

Results

I’m not sure fully sure what happened here, and it may be a good subject for another experiment. The cake turned out well. If the substitution did not work, it didn’t matter because the cake was not, certainly, overly bitter to me and I didn’t care about how tall it was.

The mellowing of flavors in Dutch process cocoa, by the way, doesn’t necessarily seem like a good thing to me. I rather like very strong / challenging flavors, such as my olive oil mayonnaise, and so I might appreciate a slightly more bitter flavor in the cake. On the other hand, would I like hot chocolate made with unsweetened cocoa?

I’m still a little confused about all this but hope to figure it out in time. I might revise this entry later.

Red velvet cakes

By the way, in an original red velvet cake, the cake turns slightly red, apparently because of the reaction of the acidic cocoa powder with the acidic vinegar (or perhaps the buttermilk, which is also acidic, I think – the Wikipedia article really isn’t clear).

This seems to be the same reaction; it has something to do with the anthocyanins in the cocoa, which change color depending on pH, and which are also responsible for the color of e.g. blueberries. I am going to leave this entry where it stands, as I said before I’m still pretty confused about how this all fits together.

http://whatscookingamerica.net/Q-A/CocoaTypes.htm

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