Justin Dunham

's journal about making things

Catering 2

One of these days I need to learn how to work a grill.

Cornbread and (in the background) a couple of different types of salads. I made too much cornbread, but people were happy to take it home with them...

Tres leches and strawberry country cakes.

Note: This is a followup to this post.

A month or so ago, I wrote about some of the constraints I faced with catering a barbecue for 40 out of my tiny Philadelphia kitchen. (Seriously, I think the kitchen is about 30 square feet, including all counter space, oven, and fridge). In this entry, I’ll talk about my experience in cooking and how everything turned out.

One thing that is surprisingly difficult to do in cooking is scaling a recipe. I mean, it’s not too hard for things like salad where you just multiply out the ingredients, or for soup. But when you’re baking things – and that can be cakes, pastries, or lots of savory dishes as well – things often don’t turn out the way you expect. For example, these miniature carrot souffles still take the 11 minutes to bake that a full-sized souffle does. I recently made some beet donuts (more on that later), and same deal, the miniaturization does nothing.

Those are easy examples, because the timing changes but everything else is fine. More heart-rendingly, take note of my experience with cauliflower gratin, which I attempted to make at approximately triple the size (i.e. three portions in a 3x baking dish).

Disaster. The dish is basically cauliflower in a rich cheese sauce. It seemed to bake fine, though it took an abnormally long time. I waited an hour or so for it to cool, and as it cooled… the sauce separated. Instead of a thick, pudding-like sauce, I ended up with a layer of fat on the bottom, and pools of grease on the top, of the dish. The grease then soaked through all of the ingredients, creating an inedible, soggy messy. I had to throw it away! Six cauliflowers’ worth of gratin, gone. I’m not sure exactly what happened, but I guess the lesson is, don’t scale if you don’t have to. It would have been much better to just cook a bunch of normally-sized portions.

The other lesson is to make lots of different things; because I had done this, losing one dish didn’t matter. And actually, my experience with the cornbread I made was the opposite – the vastly scaled-up sheets (the recipe isn’t even for bread, it’s for muffins) were some of the best cornbread I have ever made, with a soft, moist interior and a slightly crunchy top.

Overall, the meal seems to have gone pretty well. The avocado and tomato salad, cornbread, and deviled eggs were devoured. Part of the art, of course, is to pick things that are difficult to screw up, which worked in my favor. People seemed to have an aversion to the potato salad; I couldn’t figure out why. The cakes I made didn’t get finished either (actually only about half of each cake was consumed), but I did hear several people struggle with their inability to put down their fork, despite being stuffed. Overriding your eaters’ free will is every chef’s main goal.

Leftover magic

Filed under: Cooking Journal — Tags: , , — Justin Dunham on June 28, 2011

Eggs benedict with the soup in place of hollandaise.

The soup.

I’ve blogged before about this thick, almost unsettingly rich avocado soup. It’s delicious, and not that hard to make, but it’s difficult to consume it all within a reasonable time since the flavor is not very complex – I guess what I’m saying is that it gets a little boring.

Repurposing is helpful. As you might know, hollandaise sauce is made with egg yolks, butter and lemon. It turns out that the avocado soup (the main constituents of which are avocadoes, chicken stock and lime juice) substitutes for it pretty well, so you can make a version of eggs benedict with it that tastes awesome. The lime juice takes the place of the lemon juice, and the chicken stock and avocadoes both provide the savoryness that you associate with butter, while the avocado also gives thickness.

I’ve found that avocadoes are strangely similar to eggs in general – overcooked avocadoes go rubbery when overcooked in a similar way, and avocadoes can sometimes be used in place of eggs; see for example this avocado buttercream recipe.

Catering

Shopping list...

The ingredients for ten pounds of potato salad

This is about half of the shopping I did

Note: Part 2 of this post is here.

On this blog, I write a lot about dinners for two, and more recently dinners for five, seven, etc. I suppose it was inevitable that I would eventually end up catering a 40-person barbecue. Yes, inevitable!

So, when the opportunity arose to feed about half of my Wharton cohort, I took it. This doesn’t mean, reader, that I organized logistics for getting food to this event. I actually took a few days out and made all the food. This is possibly the best job I have ever had.

This first entry will be about the setup for the event, and then I’ll write another one about what I learned in trying to scale my recipes to feed more people and how everything turned out (pretty well).

Fortunately,  barbecues are pretty much the easiest possible events to cater as a newbie. The atmosphere is casual, people are relaxed, everything can be served at the same time, and everything is either served at room temperature or cooked a la minute. You may even be lucky enough – as I was – to have several very skilled grillmasters who will actually do the cooking for you.

Still, I had to think carefully about what to make. Here were my constraints:

  • Tiny kitchen. Seriously, it’s about 30′ square and that is including the floor space taken up by cabinets, the fridge, oven, etc. Storage would, therefore, be an issue – I couldn’t make massive quantities of food in advance that had to be refrigerated, and everything would have to be made sequentially since I didn’t have prep room for more than one dish at a time.
  • Limited time and resources. It was just me doing the cooking! So I’d have to be able to prepare a lot of things in advance, and I couldn’t do anything too complicated.
  • Transportation. Everything had to be packaged for, and survive, a 30-minute car trip to the barbecue site.

I thought about, and then rejected, several dishes such as biscuits (only really good right out of the oven, definitely wouldn’t keep overnight) and camp bananas (didn’t have time to make the truly prodigious quantities of marshmallows required). Fortunately I didn’t have to get too creative and ended up with a pretty good list of barbecue favorites:

The next problem was buying ingredients. Since I used to be an investment banker, when confronted with most problems I immediately think: “Excel”. (This is true even though I quit quite a few years ago). Anyway, I made the giant spreadsheet you see pictured on the left to keep track of everything. In retrospect, I ended up overbuying a few things – a mistake in a recipe also almost caused me to buy 17 cups of paprika (at least $200 worth).

I had to be careful to buy things in a deliberate sequence, since (a) I couldn’t carry everything home at once, and (b) some things like avocadoes had to be bought early so they could ripen, whereas fresh berries had to be bought just before using them.

Finally, I had to schedule everything properly. Some things, like the avocado salad, I had to make the day of. Other things, like the cornbread and the cakes, I could make several days before. And then a few other things could be partially made in advance, and finished closer to the time – I made the potato salad and barbecue sauce, and marinated the chicken, the night before; I glazed the cakes the morning of the event, etc.

Radish risotto, chicken paillard, cardamom carrots

Filed under: Cooking Journal — Tags: , , , , , , , , — Justin Dunham on September 11, 2010

The dish. You can see the radish risotto (the julienned radishes are just visible) in the back. For some reason, I put the chicken beneath the avocado slices, so you can't see it as well. Next time, I will serve about half as much avocado, or maybe turn it into some kind of salsa.

For a single-course dinner a couple weeks ago, I made the following: chicken paillards, carrots roasted with cardamom, and radish risotto. I served all of this with an avocado and some leftover corn salsa.

I had to improvise a little bit. The grocery-store situation in Philadelphia is a little touch-and-go, so I couldn’t get the parsnips – and indeed potatoes – called for in the recipe I linked above! So I decided to just go with the carrots. Similarly, I had some chicken thighs,  but I didn’t feel like roasting them. So I cut them off the bone, flattened them, and seared them quickly (about 3 minutes, maybe a little more, on each side).

As far as the individual components, everything came out really well. The paillards in particular stayed juicy and had a particularly intense chicken flavor. I love radishes, and the risotto recipe allows them to retain a little kick, and a lot of crunchiness. The colors are also beautiful. My only complaint is that the recipe calls for too much cheese, I think.

Evaluating the dinner as a whole, there were many things I liked about it. The flavors were uniformly delicious. They married pretty well together, even though the components aren’t drawn from the same cuisines. I care a lot about color when I cook, and the food was almost a full rainbow – red (radishes), orange (carrots), yellow and green (avocadoes), brown and off-white (chicken and rice).

However, I ran into some presentation issues. As you can see in the picture above, I put the avocadoes on top of the chicken. This actually looked nicer than putting the avocado under the chicken, which I also tried. It certainly isn’t unappetizing, it’s just a little confusing. I think next time I will either serve a bit less avocado, or maybe make it into some kind of salsa as a substitute for the corn salsa. The problem is that (a) the chicken really needs some kind of sauce, but (b) the avocado goes so well with all the other savory components that it seems a shame to leave it out.

Avocado soup, lamb and figs, and a rice fiasco

Filed under: Cooking Journal — Tags: , , , , , , , , , , — Justin Dunham on August 23, 2010

Avocado soup and a delicious cocktail...

Lamb; you can see the roasted figs distributed on top. Rice and beans. Broccoli.

Now that I actually have a schedule during the day (and a busy one at that), I try to do 2 cooks during the week. A “big cook” on the weekend where I do 3 courses, and a “small cook” during the week where I just make a main dish.

For big cook this week, I put together this avocado soup, and this roasted lamb and fig recipe, together with some roasted broccoli and rice and beans.

Soup is an interesting thing to make. The balance of flavors keeps changing, and so the soup must be tasted constantly as it cooks to make sure everything is in balance. With this soup, I tried to maintain the proportion of its main flavors (chicken broth, avocado, lime and pepper) so that nothing would overwhelm anything else. In general, when I am making soup, I don’t pay close attention to the recipe; I’m not sure that’s even possible.

I will note that ginger is also supposed to be a part of soup, but ginger doesn’t survive much cooking, and so I let it burn off rather than trying to keep adding more. I will probably fix this the next time around. Also, though the soup seemed quite smooth after I pureed it, I took Thomas Keller’s advice – “when in doubt, strain”. This was a smart move, since a fair amount of fibrous matter stayed in the strainer; straining may qualify as one of my kitchen secrets. Finally, as the soup aged in the fridge the lime component actually got stronger; this was an interesting side-effect.

The main was fairly straightforward – roasted filets of lamb. I bought some strange hunk of lamb from Trader Joe’s (I can’t remember what it was now) that was trussed up like a chicken. It was really cheap, and yielded seven filets! However, it took me about a half hour to get it broken down. Also, the recipe calls for a rack of lamb. Since meat with a bone in it apparently cooks much more slowly than boneless meat, I ended up overdoing the lamb fairly significantly. Still good, but seeing all the finished lamb sitting in pools of juicy goodness – which should have remained in the meat – broke my heart.

For dessert, I attempted to make this rice pudding. It was a complete and total disaster, approaching the tarte tatin incident of 2009, about which more later. I’m not sure why, but the rice simply would not absorb any liquid. I tried letting it go for a fairly long time (about 45 minutes), by which time it actually burned, forming a thick layer of charred rice along the bottom of the pan I was using. Hm.

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